I would like to raise the stock bars at least a bit to improve the standing up riding ergonomics. There are two problems.
1. The stock cables don’t have much extra
The amount of raise will be first and foremost limited by the stock cables. I haven’t yet explored rerouting options, but as stock I don’t see more than 2″ raise to be possible. From an ergonomic stand point, I would like to get at least 2″” rise.
2. The handguards will most likely hit the dash
With any noticeable rise I suspect that the handquards will no longer fit under the dash at full lock. Turning the guards downwards is not a tempting option as they are not quite level even now. For the particular handguards that I have, there is very little room to play with even in stock form.
SOLUTIONS?
A) Replace the hand quards with some other design that may provide more clearance. Buying sets of $100 with a trial and error approach is not really tempting. I will have to be on the look out for other riders’ solutions.
B) Go for risers that have both rise and pull back. This would most likely work, but would demand even more lenght from the cables. There is not much room for the bars to go back before the tank becomes and issue, but as the bars also will go up, it shouldn’t be a real problem.
I’ve found a couple of products that might suit my purposes, but I will wait for a while before being the guinea pig on this issue.
Rox Risers
The good thing with these is that you can play with the amount of pull back and rise and most likely find some sort of working solution. (http://www.twistedthrottle.ca/rox-handlebar-risers-for-22mm-bars-on-select-bmw-honda-kawasaki-ktm-triumph-ducati-motorcycles)
SW-Motech risers
These have a set rise and pull back, but seem an elegant enough solution. (http://www.twistedthrottle.com/sw-motech-handlebar-riser-bar-backs-top-clamps-for-motorcycles-pair-31mm-rise-22mm-pullback)
* loaned the pics from Twisted Throttle, hence the links. I have no affiliation. Unfortunately.
Project Honda CRF 300 L 
I think, this configuartion is not the holy grail, because by a crash, it is expenisiver to buy a new dashbord.
The lever will be very cheaper 🙂
First i will try my Ride with the original Configuartion.
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How about changing your handle bars to a non cross bar brace type, like Fat Bars by Renthal. Without the fixed cross bar brace, you may have more flexibility to move or shorten the mounting of the hand guards?
I will be fitting these type of handle bars, as and when I get my Rally.
The Rox risers are probably your best bet though, with so much adjustability. Keep up the good work with this site, very useful for any Rally owner.
Thanks
Paul
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RE; The hand guard BAR hitting the Dash (if handlebars were to be raised)
.., maybe look at this option : https://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/5981 .
When using the Zeta Pro Armour hand guards , make sure choose the optional FRONT MOUNT (and NOT handlebar clamp)
…, which the FRONT MOUNT is a nice billet aluminium bracket – that serves is a bolt on point for the ZETA pro hand guards BAR . This FRONT MOUNT – fixes to the top triple clamp (and not your handlebar) . This also makes for a stronger crash solution.
Now Guys do not quote me as this being a working solution to the problem of raised handlebars hitting the Dash .., as I do not know . I am just suggesting something that (read – MIGHT) work.., because when the Hand guard BAR is fixed to the triple clamp (instead of the handlebar) then the BAR is fixed at a lower point .
Maybe.., this lower hand guard BAR will be low enough that it misses the dash (fingers crossed)
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I tried that front mount with the Zeta Armor pro hand guards, it does not work, will hit the wind screen well before full lock.
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Re ; The Stock Handlebar Cables possibly being to short to raise the handlebars …,
Well that sucks, as most of you lucky guys have the ABS version bike , where the ABS is a new feature added to the CRF 250 Line. (ie; the CRF 250 L didnt have ABS) …,
Therefore you would have thought Honda would have allowed enough slack in the cables etc (Like earlier CRF 250 L’s did to enable higher bar or riser modifications) …, all this tells me is Honda must have robber the ABS components from another bike (for eg; CBR 250) .
I can only get the NON ABS version of the Rally in Indonesia, and most of those cables are super tight , as for sure they are the exact same cables etc from the earlier CRF250L bikes – BUT the forks on the Rally AFAIK have another INCH in the length of the rake , which also lengthens the distance between the (for example) front bake calliper and the front handbrake lever. Honda used up that previous cable slackness (that was available to previous CRF250L’s) so they could “just fit” on the Rally …., bummer.
Solution ….., Try re-routing cables .., and failing that – buy aftermarket .
It is also my opinion if you are buying new cables your better off getting better performance and longer lasting ‘Stainless steel braided lines’
– and these can be custom ordered to whatever length you want with endless colour options .., I am guessing you guys with ABS have 4 shorter cables to order , instead of 2 longer cables (as is the non ABS version)
here is a link for cables : https://www.helperformance.com/
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Hi Guys,
It’s been two years since this article was posted. Does anyone have any update/recommendation on this topic? I need to raise mine.
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I have a late 2019 CRF 250 Rally with ABS, I purchased a set of the cheap ROX riser copies off ebay but sadly they do not fit as there just isn’t enough slack in the cables , especially the front brake master hose which is stretched to its limit, you cant re-route either
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Not sure if this would work… The Rox Riser moves the bars 1″ forward and 1/25″ up. The stock bars are 31.5″ wide and have about 3.5″ of end rise. If I buy Pro Taper Mini Lows w/ 3.15″ end rise It might just work. I just want a less cramped cockpit and more rise.
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